24-inch rails start at $200 if you want a barrel or magazine clamp, $145 if you don't, and are available for Mossberg 500, Remington 12-guage pump shotguns.
- Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weight Watchers
- Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weights
- Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weight Quickly
Running my Glock 21 hard at one of Henk Iverson’s classes. A rear frame rail broke off soon after the class. The whole gun was replaced by Glock. It only had 32,000 rounds through it.
OK…let me get this out of the way right off the bat. I carry a Glock pistol during about 95% of my waking hours. My police duty gun is a Glock 21 in .45acp. A Glock 26 or a Glock 19 in 9mm are constant companions in my off-duty hours. I like Glock pistols. But are they perfect? Not a chance.
I’ve broken almost every Glock I’ve ever owned. No manufacturer is immune from this reality: If you shoot the gun enough, it will break. A gun is a mechanical device and it can fail at any time. I liken it to a car. Even if you buy the best car in the world, eventually it will break down.
I’ve been a factory-certified Glock armorer since 1997. In my job as training officer at the police department, I inspected and maintained more than 75 Glock pistols carried by my officers. I also teach at one of the largest shooting schools in the country, seeing hundreds more Glock pistols in my students’ hands each year. I’ve seen Glock pistols break in every conceivable manner. Don’t tell me “Mine has never broken!” That’s because you don’t shoot it enough. Put 10,000 rounds or more a year through a single pistol and see what happens.
Yes, they will break. But one of the reasons why I like the Glock so much is that they are easy to fix. Many of the common parts breakages can actually be prevented with some routine maintenance. In this article, I’m going to explain what parts I see break most often, and what you can do to either prevent or fix the breakages and get your gun up and running again.
#1 Most common parts breakage- Trigger Spring
Glock Trigger springs. The coil ones on top break fairly regularly.
If you look at the picture, you’ll see the coil springs on the top row. One of those springs is in your trigger mechanism. It is what returns the trigger to the forward position after the shot. They break all of the time (right at the bend on top or bottom), but not in a predictable fashion. I’ve had some guns go more than 50,000 rounds on the original spring. I’ve also seen a spring break within the first 1000 rounds. They are unpredictable.
When they break, the gun usually still functions, especially if you hold the trigger to the rear and “catch the link” after your shot breaks. If you don’t do that, you can still manually move the trigger forward after each shot. It’s not a fight stopper, but it is a pain in the ass.
If you never want to deal with spring breakage, use one of the NY trigger springs (lower level on the picture). They compress rather than stretch and I’ve never seen one break. Unfortunately, they will raise your trigger pull weight to 8 or 12 lbs from the factory 5.5 lbs. I don’t use them for that reason.
If you want to keep a traditional coil spring in the gun, I’d replace it every 10,000 rounds or so. When you do, make sure it goes in the gun looking like an “S” shape (like the photo shows) and not backwards. If you install it backwards, the gun will work, but the spring is more likely to break.
#2 Most common parts breakage- Locking Block Pin
The locking block pin is the top one of the two pins above your trigger. It breaks fairly regularly, especially in the .40 and .357 Sig guns. You’ll know it’s broken because your gun’s slide will randomly lock to the rear when you still have rounds left in the magazine.
An armorer is using a punch to remove the locking block pin
The best way to stop it from breaking is to replace your recoil springs every 3000 rounds. Not many Glock owners do this, but I’ve found it to be critical in avoiding parts breakage. When the recoil spring weakens, the slide moves faster and puts more stress on many of the parts on the gun (frame rails, locking block, pins). The constant high-speed battering is a sure recipe for a locking block pin breakage. Replace your recoil spring!
If your locking block pin does break, don’t just shove a new one into the hole. The slide stop lever (slide release) tensions on the locking block pin. If you drive the pin through the hole with the slide stop lever still in place, you could damage the spring on the top of the lever. Remove the trigger pin and slide stop lever. Reinstall the locking block pin. Tension the slide stop lever underneath the locking block pin and then drive in your trigger pin.
#3 Most common parts breakage- Slide Stop Lever
This one isn’t usually a breakage. Nothing actually breaks. The spring just gets all bent up and the piece stops working correctly. See the wire spring on the left of the slide stop lever (also called the slide release)? That’s what I was talking about above when I said it tensions under (not around) the locking block pin.
Those springs get thrashed from poor reassembly techniques and occasionally just bend through normal usage. You’ll notice something is wrong because the slide will lock open randomly when firing or it won’t lock open after the last round is fired. If this happens, just replace the slide stop lever. It’s around $5. I’ve never had any luck bending the spring back into the right position.
#4 Most common parts breakage- Slide Lock Spring
The slide lock spring is the L-shaped spring that gives tension to the slide lock, that piece that you push down in order to strip your gun.
When these break, it’s a fight stopping malfunction. The slide will just fall off of the frame after you fire a shot. In essence, the gun comes apart during firing just like when you take it apart for cleaning. I’ve had some bad luck with this one.
I once carried a .45acp Glock 30. I loved the gun, but the slide lock spring broke SEVEN TIMES! I had to get rid of it. It just wasn’t reliable enough to carry. I’ve seen other Glock 30s with broken slide lock springs as well.
The other guns I see with broken slide lock springs are the older model 23 and 19 guns. There are 2 different slide lock springs for the Glock 23 (and 19). The newer one is thicker and less likely to break. The older one is narrow and breaks after about 8,000 rounds in my experience. If you have the narrow one, you should probably upgrade to the new one. The spring costs about $2 and can be replaced in less than 5 minutes.
No matter which Glock you carry, you can cause wear to the slide lock spring by improperly installing your recoil spring assembly. When you are setting the recoil spring down into the grooves in the barrel, make sure you place it in the DEEPEST GROOVE. Not the one closer to the surface. If you place it in the top groove, the edge of the recoil spring assembly will rub on the slide lock spring every time the slide reciprocates. That will eventually cause it to break.
I’ve seen lots of other parts break, but the ones I listed above are by far the most common. Most of them won’t really even take you out of the fight if you recognize what’s going on.
Prevention is really pretty simple…
Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weight Watchers
If you own a Glock, regularly replace the recoil spring assembly (every 3000-4000 rounds), check your pins, and take a look at the springs when you take the gun apart for cleaning. That’s not too hard. If you are concerned about parts breaking during a gunfight, carry a second gun. It’s the best insurance you can buy.
Parts replacement is pretty easy. The best Glock gunsmithing reference I’ve found is The Complete Glock Reference Guide. If you aren’t mechanically inclined, this book provides excellent disassembly and repair instructions.
Are Glocks perfect? Nope. But most other guns are even less so. I’ll keep carrying my Glock “perfection” until another gun maker creates something better. I’m not holding my breath.
Yes, that’s an airsoft Glock. I had to use it to demo a building search technique when its big brother (holstered) stopped working.
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Related posts:
How to diagnose and repair your Glock pistol. Glock repair chart with common Glock problems, causes and corrections along with related procedures for repairing your Glock pistol.
See also:
GLOCK PISTOL REPAIR CHART
See Glock Maintenance for select repair procedures.
Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weights
| PROBLEM | PROBABLE CAUSES | CORRECTION |
| FAILURE TO EXTRACT (1) | Extractor worn, broken or missing | Replace the extractor |
| Defective ammunition | Change ammunition | |
| Dirt under the extraction claw | Clean the extractor | |
| Dirty chamber | Clean the chamber | |
| Shooting with an unlocked wrist (limp wristing) | Lock shooting hand wrist | |
| FAILURE TO EJECT OR ERRATIC EJECTION (INCLUDING STOVE PIPES) (1) | Broken or damaged ejector | Replace trigger mechanism housing with ejector |
| Underpowered ammunition | Change ammunition | |
| Dirty chamber | Clean the chamber | |
| Shooting with an unlocked wrist | Lock shooting hand wrist | |
| Lack of lubrication | Lubricate | |
| Dirty gun | Clean | |
| FAILURE TO FEED (2) | Magazine not properly inserted | Reinsert magazine |
| Underpowered ammunition | Change ammunition | |
| Dirty magazine | Clean and inspect magazine | |
| Weak magazine spring | Replace magazine spring or magazine | |
| Dirty chamber | Clean the chamber | |
| Tight extractor | Replace or clean as needed | |
| Shooting with an unlocked wrist (limp wristing) | Lock shooting hand wrist | |
| Deformed magazine (magazine sides or lip deformed | Replace magazine | |
| Weak recoil spring | Replace recoil spring | |
| SLIDE FAILS TO LOCK OPEN ON LAST ROUND | Magazine follower broken | Replace magazine or magazine follower |
| Dirty magazine | Clean and inspect magazine | |
| Weak magazine spring | Replace magazine spring or magazine | |
| Worn slide stop lever notch | Contact Warranty Department if the replacement of the magazine and slide stop lever did not correct the issue. | |
| Dirty gun | Clean | |
| Needs lubrication | Lubricate | |
| Deformed magazine | Replace magazine | |
| Trigger pin inserted too far (left or right) Slide stop lever worn | This can cause the spring on the slide stop lever to bind. Check to see if the slide stop lever moves freely. If no, press the trigger pin slightly to the right until the slide stop lever moves freely. | |
| Slide stop lever damaged | Inspect and replace if necessary | |
| Underpowered ammunition | Change ammunition | |
| Shooting with and unlocked wrist (limp wristing) | Lock shooting hand wrist | |
| Improper grip | Tighten grip | |
| FAILURE TO FIRE | Slide out of battery (DO NOT FORCE INTO BATTERY) due to: deformed defective round | Inspect and replace round |
| Under powered ammunition | Change ammunition | |
| Damaged/weak recoil spring | Replace recoil spring assembly | |
| Damaged recoil spring tube | Replace recoil spring assembly | |
| Mating surfaces of barrel, slide and the receiver excessively dirty | Field strip and clean | |
| Gun dirty/obstructed chamber | Clean chamber | |
| Shooting with an unlocked wrist (limp wristing) | Lock shooting hand wrist | |
| NO PRIMER STRIKE | Worn or broken firing pin tip | Replace firing pin |
| Obstructed firing pin channel | Clear and clean the firing pin channel | |
| Spring cups inverted | Assemble properly | |
| LIGHT, CENTERED PRIMER STRIKE | Hard primer (SMG ammunition) | Change ammunition |
| Obstructed firing pin channel | Remove, inspect and clean firing pin and firing pin spring. Clean firing pin channel | |
| LIGHT OFF-CENTER PRIMER STRIKE | Tight extractor | Replace |
| Dirty gun | Clean | |
| Slide lock reversed or not beveled | Replace or reinstall the slide lock | |
| Weak recoil spring | Replace the recoil spring | |
| INCONSISTENT TRIGGER PULL OR WILL NOT RELEASE | Connector loose in housing | Replace housing |
| Pistol is excessively dirty | Field strip and clean | |
| Wrong trigger bar | Replace | |
| Connector needs lubrication | Lubricate | |
| Trigger bar is bent or damaged | Replace trigger bar | |
| TRIGGER SAFETY FAILS TO RETURN TO ENGAGES (FORWARD) POSITION | Improperly stored in original box with trigger in full forward position (trigger safety fully depressed) | Replace trigger bar. When stored in original box, pistol must be unloaded, trigger in back position. |
| FIRING PIN SAFETY FAILS AS DESCRIBED IN THE MANUAL | Damaged, worn or defective firing pin safety | Replace |
| LOCKS OPEN EARLY | Improper hand position | Change grip |
| Reverse tension on slide stop lever | Install lever correctly and perform field inspection for proper tension. | |
| Damaged slide stop lever | Replace |
Why Doesn't Glock Machine Slots Into Frames To Save Weight Quickly
FTE = Failure to Extract or Failure to Eject.
Failure to Extract and Failure to Eject have different meanings even though FTE is used for both terms.Extraction refers to the removal of the spent cartridge case from the chamber. If you have a spent case that it stuck in the chamber or your extractor is broken, you have a Failure to Extract.
Ejection is where the spent case is forcefully thrown or ejected from the action of the gun. If the ejector is broken or the round is underpowered such that it does not have sufficient energy to drive the slide all the way to the rear you have a Failure to Eject. You can also have a Failure to Eject by “weak-wristing” or “limp-wristing” the pistol. One type of Failure To Extract is a stovepipe. A stovepipe is when the spent casing gets caught by the slide before being ejected from the gun. The empty case gets caught by the closing slide and gets stuck sticking out the side of the slide. It looks like a stove pipe. Stovepipes are associated with problems with certain ammunition or pistols that jam because the shell isn’t ejected properly.
FTF = Failure to Feed
The listed are intended as aids in diagnosing the cause and correction of problems observed when shooting. They are not intended to be inclusive or “catch-all” remedies. The actual remedy may consist of one or more of the above listed factors.
- The primary source of information for the above table was the Glock Armorer’s Manual, 2009.